Rabbi Rifat Sonsino, Ph.D
June 21, 2019
My wife, Ines, and I have been going to Spain for the last
12 years, each time for about two weeks, to help out Bet Shalom, a small but
vibrant Reform congregation in Barcelona that does not have a full-time Rabbi. This
year too, in early June, we made our trip, this time, primarily to attend and
officiate at a family Bar Mitzvah. Here are some impressions of our visit:
1. Bet Shalom is thankfully growing slowly but steadily. They now
have about 120 members, a small religious school, and an active social action
program. On Friday nights, they have services at around 8 pm, followed by a dinner
for all the participants at 10 pm. Many people bring food, and all help out in
the clean-up. This creates a great Sabbath spirit for all present.
2. The Bar Mitzvah of my brother’s grandson was memorable for the
wonderful way in which he, the Bar Mitzvah boy, did his part, and for the fact
that more than 20 people, mostly family members, travelled to Barcelona to
share this special event. I conducted the Saturday morning service in English.
(Other services are in Spanish, of course).
3. For us, going to Spain is special, because it enables us to see
old friends and to reconnect with our dear ones and leaders of the congregation.
A few of us also spent two days in southern France, visiting the walled-cities
of Perpignan and Carcassonne. In Barcelona, in addition to the Bar Mitzvah, I
also officiated at two Friday night services, dedicated a Torah (a scroll
containing the Five Books of Moses), did a conversion, a wedding, and gave a
few lectures.
4. Unlike our synagogues in the United States, which are visible
and clearly identified as religious institutions, often with a star of David at
the main entrance, Bet Shalom is located not too far away from Gaudi’s famous
church, Sagrada Familia, but, for security reasons, it does not have any
identifying Jewish sign. The main door has rolling-down metal shutters, but it
does have a small Mezuzah on the right door jamb. There are about 10,000-15,000
Jews in the country, but they watch what they do as Jews, and stay away from
activities that will provoke extremists.
5. Jews were expelled from Spain in 1492 but there are a number of
Christians who still preserve family memories regarding their Jewish background.
The groom at the wedding, a prominent doctor who was the mayor of a town near
Barcelona, told me that his mother or grandmother used to light candles on
Friday nights, as it is customary in Jewish tradition before the Sabbath, and would
always tell her kids, “We are not like the others,” meaning, we have our own
traditions that we need to keep.
6. Early in the year, I felt that Bet Shalom could use a second
Torah. So I inquired among my colleagues in the States and was able to locate
one in New Jersey. This was send to us to Boston, and, we, unopened, took it to
Barcelona, all the time worrying that it could be lost or damaged. But the
Torah travelled well, and we brought it safely to Bet Shalom. I dedicated it
through a special ceremony on the first Friday night. The congregation was very
moved and grateful. We also donated our own Yad (“pointer”). Now, the
congregation can use both scrolls.
7. The food in Barcelona is exceptionally good, but daily meals are
held at different times. Lunch, the main meal of the day, is about 1.30 to 2
pm, and dinner is rarely earlier than 9 pm. I had a hard time adjusting to this
schedule.
8. Spaniards love to drink their
special kind of coffee and eat delicious pastries all day long. Across from our
hotel in the Maria Christina area, we had 3 or 4 coffee shops, at times, one
next to another, each with a small counter. They were busy all day long. In one
case, Ines got her “cortadito” (a small cup of coffee) at a store manned by two
individuals. I asked them: how can you make a living in such a small place,
especially when you also close during the weekends? Their answer: we have the
best coffee in town! And they did.
9. In Judaism, a Mikvah is a
bath used for the purpose of ritual immersion in order to achieve ritual purity.
When a person emerges out of it, it is considered as if he/she were a newborn.
Converts, in particular, are expected, by Jewish law, to immerse, as part of
their conversion ceremony. However, there is no Mikvah in Barcelona. We have to
use the public beach. This year, after examining one candidate in the synagogue
before the Bet Din (the religious court) as to her knowledge about the basics
of Judaism, we, the members of the court (3 of us) along with the candidate,
her husband, and Ines, went to the seashore, where the prospective convert had
to undress inside the water, and prepare to dunk. But the waters were wavy and
cold, so she had a hard time doing it. So, a lady, a member of the court, had
to get into the water with a bathing suit, and help her get under the water in
order to achieve the desired goal. No one, especially, the candidate, will ever
forget the details of this ceremony. Then, we all went out to eat and
celebrate.
Ines and I will continue to keep in touch
with our friends in Barcelona who continue to do a remarkable work with few
resources but with great enthusiasm.